Trans Americas 2009 - The Blog

I was woken up by the sound of Nick talking loudly in the corridor about the “bus that hit me last night” a reference to the whisky no doubt... at first I cursed him for waking me up, but then I caught sight of my watch and the time... 7.15am... just 15 minutes to departure time! I was up and showered and outside packing the bike in record time, but still feeling the after-effects of the night before. One of these days I'll learn, but not on this trip... as today is the last riding day....

With waterproofs on as it had started to rain, a constant heavy drizzle, I got on my bike and left, not quite last as Pertti was still getting ready whilst all the others had gone. The first section of the ride was on quick but damp roads, gently winding over the hills before they were left behind and the road straightened out. Riding at a fast but comfortable pace I caught up the main group after just 65 miles, then stopped for a drink of water and some peanuts in lieu of the breakfast I'd missed. I then continued on my way, catching the group again after a further 30 miles or so, as they were riding at a conservative 60 mph. We arrived at the fuel stop with Julia's bike showing -4 miles on her range, which explained why they were riding so slowly. Filled up with fuel and coffee and with some snacks in my system I set off again, this time ahead of the group so I could set my own pace. With the open road ahead and my head clear, I settled into the ride, relishing this last opportunity to enjoy the delights of riding in this continent for the last time, even if it was raining and cold. The route-notes referred to a restaurant where we should stop for lunch and to re-group to allow is all to ride into Buenos Aires together, but said it was just after the town of Las Flores at 297 miles – only Las Flores was at less than 200 miles and the restaurant was nowhere to be seen. After riding around for a little while I saw Aaron heading back out of town and after a quick chat we decided to continue riding until we hit the mileage and see if we could locate the restaurant. It seemed the notes had confused the town's name, as on 297 miles we found the restaurant and pulled up outside. Just as we did so I noticed that the noisy bike I had heard which I assumed was Aaron's was actually mine, the exhaust having split just ahead of the silencer. Good job we only had 70 more miles to ride...





We went inside the restaurant and organised the staff, who were all well into their old-age, to lay tables for all 25 of us, and no sooner had they done so than the group started rolling in. Lunch took an eternity to arrive, my ravioli being the last despite me arriving first, and it wasn't worth the wait. When we'd all eaten and settled the bill we went back out into the rain and started the final leg of this incredible journey. Riding in one large group for the last time we rode the remaining 70 miles to Buenos Aires, the sound of my exhaust almost drowning out the tunes in my helmet. Riding near the back I had a great view of the group, riding in perfect staggered formation. The roads into Buenos Aires got wider and the traffic heavier as we passed through a number of toll booths and headed for the city centre. Soon we were riding along Avenida 9 De Julio, the world's widest road. This is an entire city-block wide and took us deep into the heart of the city, before we turned off and a couple of turns later were pulling into the underground car park of the hotel. Down the slippery ramp and into a parking space and then finally switching off the bike. The ride, all the way from Anchorage to Buenos Aires via the top and bottom of the world, finally over.

There was one last sting in the tail, though, as Aaron dropped his bike at the top of the ramp. Both he and the bike were undamaged, but there was a certain irony in his misfortune. We'd had Ed drop his just before the start and now we'd had a similar drop at the very end.

The car park was then filled with noisy congratulations, more man-hugs and handshakes, but this time no tears, just signs of relief on the faces of the group. We were also greeted by some of the Patagonia group, including Santa Phil (who'd brought my starter motor to Santiago) and Van Al (who we'd last seen in Chile before my off). A quick celebratory beer and then to the room for a warm shower and a rest before dinner. We'd arranged to go to a meat restaurant a few blocks from the hotel and the food was very good, although I couldn't eat my steak as I think I've had too much red meat lately. The evening was a little subdued, none of the noisy excesses of the night before, the group in a contemplative mood, reflecting on the fact that the ride was now over. With just the process of getting the bikes through customs and onto the boat home to sort before we all depart for our homes and return to our previous lives...

Which is probably a good time for me to reflect on this amazing journey...

Over the past 19 weeks I have covered a total of 22,304 miles (21,304 on my bike allowing for the speedo error and 1,000 on Nick's following my off) through 13 countries (USA – 7 states: Alaska, Montana, Wyoming, Utah, Colorado, Arizona and New Mexico, Canada – 3 provinces: Yukon, British Columbia and Alberta, Mexico, Guatamala, Honduras, Nicaragua, Costa Rica, Panama, Columbia, Equador, Peru, Chile and Argentina) and 5 time zones. As part of the longest Trans_Am expedition to date, I have been part of a group that has seen everyone who started reach the end - a first, as previous Trans Ams have had to send at least one person home due to injury. Despite a number of fairly serious “offs” (mine, Nigel's, Gerald's, Simon's, Nick's) and a large number of other falls (only Kevin didn't drop his bike the entire trip) we only had one broken bone – and that wasn't really broken, just cracked (my rib). We've had bikes broken and repaired, and ended the trip with just one bike sent home (Danielle's after she hurt her wrist in Mexico, the bike sent back in Panama) and one ended in the van (Chris' after his crash – but it was cannibalised to get Andy's back on the road). I was lucky enough to be able to ride every single mile despite a number of problems with the bike (the fuel pipe disconnecting in Honduras and the starting problem) and my off (which meant I rode Nick's bike for 3 days until mine could be repaired).

I have seen how varied the landscape of a single continent can change, from vast snow-capped mountain ranges, bright blue and green lakes, forests both tropical or temperate, huge cultivated lands, isolated and deserted plains, deserts, and the beautiful oceans (Arctic, Pacific, Atlantic and Southern). I have seen all sorts of wildlife, including alpaca, bears, condors, dolphins, eagles, foxes, guanacos, hares, iguanas, jackrabbits, king salmon, llamas, moose, ospreys, penguins, rheas, scorpions, turtles, vicunas and whales. I have seen the people of the Americas change as we travelled the length of their continent – from the stocky hardy folk of Alaska through the tiny delicate people of Central America and Peru to the tall elegant people of Columbia and Argentina. I have seen the stark difference in the way people who share this land-mass live, from the extravagant consumerism of North America to the desperate poverty of the Peruvian desert. I have ridden all sorts of roads, from smooth tarmac, hard-packed dirt, gravel, sand (oops!) and rocks, into canyons and over mountains, through valleys and by the ocean. I have enjoyed and endured all types of weather, from hot sunshine through tropical humidity, high winds, torrential rain and freezing snow.

And all this whilst enjoying the company of my fellow travellers, who once were strangers and are now friends.

And the best bit of all is I did this whole journey on a motorcycle. A remarkable motorcycle. My 2005 BMW R1150 GS Adventure, affectionately known since La Esperanza, Honduras, when it was named by a passer-by, as “El Monstro”. It looks a lot worse for wear following the off, but has got me here to Buenos Aires. When I finally get it home I'll spend some time restoring it to its pre-accident condition and perhaps one day we'll set off again on another adventure... but for now, I think it deserves a rest even more than I do...

So what was it all about? Well, one way to describe it is that it was simply a long bike ride so I could put these 2 stickers on my panniers...