Trans Americas 2009 - The Blog

Another border crossing day, as we head back into Chile and on to Santiago to get the bike's serviced and have some much-needed rest & relaxation.

Once again I woke feeling better than the day before, still a little sore and stiff, but nonetheless on the mend. After breakfast we were ready to roll at the allotted time of 8am, riding in convoy the 70 miles or so to the border, high in the Andes mountains. For some reason, Jim, who's normally up and off ahead of the main group had a major dither on today, so whilst the main group left, he and Mac (the other “kipper”) were late to depart, holding the van up behind them. As we climbed into the mountains it looked like raining, so I stopped to wait for the van (my waterproofs foolishly left inside my top-box in the van), Julia pulling over to wait with me and to check on the whereabouts of the van. It finally arrived, chasing the kippers up the mountain, and pulled up alongside us. Once togged up in out waterproofs – surprised to find my jacket almost intact despite me wearing it during my off – we set off again, climbing every higher into the mountains, with the rain starting to drizzle and then turning to light snow. The border post is very close to Acongagua, at 6962m (22841 ft) the highest mountain in the whole of the American continent, but sadly the low cloud prevented us from seeing it. The temperature dropped down to 2.5degrees as we reached the highest point, passing through a long tunnel in which was marked the official transition point from Argentina to Chile.





Once at the Chilean border post the chaos started, as 20 riders tried to work out the magic sequence of windows and forms to get them through. I asked several who had arrived before me and seemed to be some way through the process and was given several different answers. In the end, I decided to just work it out for myself, and it went something like this: get form from window 5, fill it in and take it with passport and Agentinian entry form to window 1, get passport and form stamped, take to window 2, get another stamp, window 3 and another stamp, window 4 and another stamp and new form, fill in the form, take outside and get the SAG (agricultural inspection) people to inspect the bike (still in the van), then they stamp the new form and the main one, back inside to window 5, pay 600 pesos, get another stamp, then finally one more stamp and all done...

As I was clearing my bike, Nick was clearing his, and when all done we swapped the forms that we'd need to hand in at the exit, and I rode there with the van tucked in behind. Having handed the forms in, we were given one last bit of paper and on our way. The road down from the border was a joy, smooth tarmac and a lot of hairpins all crammed together as it dropped down the steep mountainside and then along the valley to the plain below. Riding in convoy we cleared endless roadworks before hitting the outskirts of Santiago and the peages. Kevin had arranged for a police escort into the city and to the hotel, so at one peage we pulled over to wait, having arrived much earlier than expected. A couple of hours of relaxing in the sunshine, drinking tea made by Jeff on his little stove and eating van snacks was most welcome... Then the camera crew from the local news and the 2 police motorcyclists arrived, shaking hands and taking pictures.





When the formalities were done we set off, hoping for a high-speed ride but being disappointed as we rode steadily along the autoroute, stopping at the peage whilst we all cleared through. Riding near the back the group looked really impressive, covering a fair distance and riding in perfect staggered formation. As we neared the city, the police rider at the back suddenly raced past us all, holding up the traffic at a red light so we could pass. I was following Max & Christine and could hear them laughing as she sat on the back and gave the Queen's wave to the motorists who had been prevented from continuing their journey to let this group of dusty, travel weary bikers go by...

At the hotel we dropped off our luggage and panniers, then got back on the bikes for another escorted ride, this time to the BMW dealer where they'll be serviced. My bike was unloaded from the van and caused a bit of consternation among the police riders, especially when I explained what had happened and how I'd since been riding Nick's almost undamaged motorcycle whilst he had been incapacitated. We booked the bikes in for a service, explaining that mine also needed the brake fluid replacing and was to be done in the first batch as we've still some other issues to resolve once its serviced, ate some canapés and then finally caught a taxi back to the hotel. Which proved to be a very bad idea, as I crammed myself in the back and nearly crippled myself trying to get back out, the pain really bad again. I had to ask Aaron to move my luggage to my room, so bad was it. A hot bath helped, and enabled me to hobble out to dinner later that evening. No sooner had we finished eating than I bid my fellow diners goodnight (they were heading out for some nightlife) and made my way back to the hotel and my bed...

But I'd made it to Santiago, having ridden all the way. Now I've got 4 full days to get fit again and sort out my bike before the final leg of the journey...

Postscript: Tracy sent me an email to let me know that the article I'd written for Kevin and Julia has been published in the latest edition of "Motorcycle Sport & Leisure" magazine, including some of my pictures. Another of life's ambitions ticked-off!