Trans Americas 2009 - The Blog

As usual I woke early, but this morning in very good spirits as I was looking forward to my bike starting without trouble for the first time in ages. Breakfast was quickly dispensed with and just after 7.20am I was ready to hit the starter and see what happened... and the bike fired first time, just like a new one. Boy, was I in a good mood!

My mood just got better too as soon as Aaron, Nick, Al and I rode out of the hotel grounds and onto the road before everyone else was even ready. There's something pretty cool about being out in the early morning, first to experience what the road has to offer. We rode out of town with me leading (Aaron having missed the first turn) and before long were heading up into the mountains again on perfectly smooth tarmac... bliss...





The road didn't stay perfect for long, though, as no sooner had we re-started having stopped to admire the view than it turned into another pot-holed mess, with sand swept to the inside corners of the bends adding a new challenge. Turning the bike in the tight hairpins was hard work as the wheels skitted over the potholes and slid on the sand. But nothing was going to dampen my mood, not even the huge truck that came down one hairpin and almost completely filled the entire road, just as I was entering the bend – I had to take serious evasive action to avoid getting crushed, but it wasn't a drama, just another of the challenges we face regularly when riding these roads...

The road climbed quickly high into the Andes, eventually reaching a fairly flat plateau where the roadsigns warned of animal crossings. Having heard the horror stories from previous trips, including Tony Mac who joined us in Bogotá and was brought down by a vicuna (a camelid similar to an alpaca only smaller) during the High Andes trip and had to be repatriated as a result, we took it steady, stopping regularly to photograph the wildlife and scenery...








The plateau seemed to go on for ages, and we noticed we were breathless whenever we stopped. That's not surprising, though, as most of it was over 4,000 metres, and the high point I saw on my GPS was 4,574m (just over 15,000 ft). The bike behaved perfectly, albeit a little down on power. But that didn't stop us pressing on, really enjoying the mountain roads as we crossed the Andes and started descending into the valley below. Some of the roads bore a passing resemblance to some of the Alpine passes, one section in particular very similar to the Grimsel Pass, winding down the hill in a series of hairpins connected by short straights, then opening out into wide sweeping bends. After a good 5 hours riding we arrived in the small village of Chalhuanca and spotted a restaurant where we could have some lunch. By now Aaron and I were quite some way ahead of the others, a result of them slowing down and taking photos, rather than us speeding up. We went inside and ordered some chicken, and whilst we waited chatted to a couple of young lads who had come to see the bikes...




Since we'd left the desert of the coast, the people have become noticeably more friendly, waving and chatting to us as soon as we stop (not that we can understand much of what they're saying!). Whilst we ate our delicious lunch of fried chicken in spicy sauce and rice and chips, one old gent came up to us and doffed his cap, saying “salut a' Peru” or something like that, welcoming us to Peru. Sat in this little wooden restaurant, just the two of us, knowing that none of the rest of the group had already been through to break the newness spell, was quite special. Soon Nick, Al and Simon joined us, Nick not looking too well, his stomach once again giving him some problems. He left just after ordering his lunch, feeling like he might be sick if he didn't. After we'd finished eating, Aaron and I paid our bill and left Al and Simon still scoffing their lunch, just as Max & Christine and Chris & Danielle arrived... by now the locals had seen enough strangers on bikes and paid them little attention, leaving Aaron and I to savour our memories and continue on our way, waving to the locals as we left the village. I really like this aspect of travelling, catching fleeting glimpses into complete stranger's lives and sharing a single moment of connection, an exchanged smile, an exchanged wave...

The road then followed the river through the valley to our destination of Abancay, the tarmac once again smooth and flowing, our pace brisk and enjoyable. With the sun still shining all was very well with the world indeed, the stresses of the past few days worrying about whether my bike would ever work again all gone, and my love affair with this lump of metal restored. Just before arriving in Abancay we came upon a big truck carrying huge logs, atop which sat a group of young women, who proceeded to wave frantically at us, then started blowing us kisses... I could get a hero complex if this carries on much longer ;-)

When we finally reached town, we filled up with fuel and then rode down the main street towards the hotel, only to find the road blocked by some youngsters who were busy creating artwork that span almost from kerb to kerb, beautiful patterns of yellow and red petals (I think that's what they were). We had to ride just to the side of them in order to avoid disturbing their work, squeezing between the artwork and the kerb. Then we arrived and rode into the hotel car park, Nick's bike already parked up but no sign of him (he'd gone to his room, understandably!). We checked in and I showered and changed before typing up some of the day's events, still buzzing from the ride and the encounters with strangers...





When all the bikes had arrived and been parked in the little courtyard at the hotel they made quite a sight, but it does look like I won't be getting away first in the morning, as I seem to be blocked-in!





Whilst I was hanging around waiting to go for dinner, a small parade made its way slowly and noisily along the street outside the hotel, carrying a strange stage-like thing with a picture of Jesus on and letting off fire-crackers. I've absolutely no idea what it was all about, and my pictures are rubbish, so suffice to say it was.... odd...

Dinner was a pizza in a local restaurant, which was “interesting” as they use local Peruvian cheese which tastes nothing like mozzarella, washed down with a bottle of the best Peruvian red wine we could find, which tasted nothing like red wine... and so to bed, the end of a very good day indeed....