Trans Americas 2009 - The Blog

Not surprisingly after last night's excesses, this morning I slept late... until 8.30am, meaning that by the time I'd showered, dressed, grabbed a bite to eat and loaded the bike, the main group had already left. Kevin was going to be leading a trail-ride up to the river, where bears have been seen in the past, and I'd wanted to go too, but my tardy start meant I'd have to find my own way. Leaving the hotel around 9.15, I went in search of the trail, which I'd been told was not signposted but was about 25Km (all distances in Canada are in Km rather than miles) South. I went up a few gravelled roads before I finally found the right one, which led through the woods for 17 miles to the river. The trail was great fun to ride, rough and muddy in places, but generally in good condition. Riding alone through the woods was a superb way to blow away the remnants of last night's beer, and once again re-affirmed how remarkable a motorcycle the GS is – what other bike could do this stuff?





At the trailhead by the river were the rest of the group that had opted for this “extra”, all beaming smiles – after all, here we were in the middle of nowhere, by a fast-flowing river, having ridden 17 miles on a completely empty road, not seeing another soul.





After standing around chatting and admiring the scenery whilst once again getting eaten alive by mosquitoes, it was time to head back up the trail the 17 miles to the road. Once again I managed to get a clear road ahead of me, and rode up the trail at a fair old pace, keeping my eyes peeled for hazards such as muddy sections, loose gravel, huge potholes and at the same time scanning the surrounding forest for signs of wildlife. Sadly all I saw was a single squirrel. Still, the ride had most definitely been worth it, and once again I found myself feeling completely relaxed and with that warm feeling inside...

Back on the road I kept a steady pace, again scanning the surrounding vegetation for signs of life. A few miles up the road I caught up with Chris and we rode together for a while, stopping at a roadside “rock shop” to buy some water and chocolate to help ward off dehydration and raise my falling blood sugar levels. The shop was run by an eccentric old couple and was full of “rocks” - bits of rock on display plinths for sale – over every flat surface, and covered with the dust of decades... it was a surreal experience, but the water and chocolate were in date, so no harm done. After the stop Chris and I got separated as we were both running our own pace (something that happens often, as I tend to ride most of the day on my own, hooking up with other riders for short sections when circumstances dictate). A few more miles up the road I noticed something in the bushes on the opposite side of the road, so spun a quick u-turn and went back for a closer look. There, lying about 10 feet away and munching on a roadside bush was a bear...





So I turned off the engine and took out my camera, only to discover this bear could put Carlie to shame when it comes to avoiding having his photo taken. Every time I tried, he'd drop his head back into the bush and start munching. Meanwhile, I was getting eaten alive by a thousand mosquitoes that had arrived to join the feast. Despite pipping my horn to try and attract his attention, he was having none of it, so the picture above is the best one I got... maybe next time...

After the excitement of the bear sighting, I continued on my way, stopping at Destruction Bay for fuel, where I met Nick, still looking worse for wear despite the coffee... I joined him for a cup and bought a sticker before once again setting off. The road became more curvy, as it followed the shoreline of the Kluane Lake, a huge mass of water some 70Km long and 400 Sq Km in area. With the distant mountains just visible despite the ever-present smoke haze (which reduces visibility to about 2-3miles) and Creedence Clear Water Revival playing in my ears, I was in my element, riding and singing and smiling along for mile after mile...

Finally I arrived in Haines Junction, our stop for the night and pulled into the Gas station to fill up with Dean Martin explaining “that's amore”.. Quite... A few minutes later I'd checked in to the Raven Hotel, a nice large room with 2 big beds and a warm shower, and was sat using the Internet to update the blog with tales of yesterday... Dinner was a subdued affair, half the group opting for a gourmet meal in the hotel, whilst the rest of us, Richard, Karen, Nick, Al, Andy, Gerald and me headed across the road for a chinese and a solitary beer... the excesses of last night meaning conversation was muted and we left for our beds with the clock showing 9pm...